I think I popped it.
06-28-14, 10:55 AM
#202
Guess I spoke too son on the starter issue. I still get the same thing on a hot start; turn key and get no response but interior beep, lights and gauges of course, fuel pump and the relays clicking. Started just fine cold. Time for another starter? I didn't replace the one I had as it tested great but it is indeed original.
I guess I'll be putting that code 27 on the back burner again. I have that and an idle issue I think I may have attributed to the tps as I found g/r wire at .65vdc. Idled fine on its own last night. It is 25 degrees hotter now than it was last night though too. I reset the tps but it won't start hot so I can't see if I did anything until it cools and see if it will start then.
This is giving me a headache.
I guess I'll be putting that code 27 on the back burner again. I have that and an idle issue I think I may have attributed to the tps as I found g/r wire at .65vdc. Idled fine on its own last night. It is 25 degrees hotter now than it was last night though too. I reset the tps but it won't start hot so I can't see if I did anything until it cools and see if it will start then.
This is giving me a headache.
06-28-14, 11:51 AM
#203
When the starter is problematic take a screw driver and use it to bridge the positive cable from the battery to the starter solenoid and see if it spins each and every time. If it does then the problem is the wiring. Make sure the terminals at the battery are clean and especially the ground spot for the negative cable which bolts to the fender. Also, make sure this metal bracket that bolts to the fender is properly grasping both negative cables within it.
06-28-14, 12:23 PM
#204
By fender you mean driver side shock tower right? Between that part of the fender and the AC compressor? That has long since been redone and this problem started long afterwards unfortunately. I used all stainless hardware, rewrapped and conduit on all the wires and reclamped the hanger to the two grounds with a new stainless hanger and a wire wheel to the fender, lots of dielectric as always. No dice. I don't understand why it ran fantastic last night and nothing now. Ambient temps causing resistances to go too high? This thing must move it is my only option to fix it in the next few hours.
I'd like to add too that the engine is now almost completely cooled and still will not even try to turn. Anybody want to buy a fresh rebuild S5?
I'd like to add too that the engine is now almost completely cooled and still will not even try to turn. Anybody want to buy a fresh rebuild S5?
06-28-14, 12:55 PM
#205
I just got underneath it with a screwdriver to try and jump across it. I got nice strong sparks but it didn't turn or extend one bit. I do probably need that new starter. At least it can't hurt that I polished everything else up yesterday.
07-03-14, 08:16 AM
#206
Ultimately just replaced starter and now she goes.
NEXT ON THE LIST - my limp mode issue. Only sometimes do I get code 27. It has gotten more difficult to make it go into limp mode the more I drive it but it still does it. The way it sits now is the OMP itself is gutted and bolted to the front cover but there's a blockoff plate underneath it, plugged in still of course. Since I still get limp mode, can it be caused by not having the rest of the parts inside the actual pump?
If thay isn't it, I have heard it can be full range tps/wiring. How probable is that?
NEXT ON THE LIST - my limp mode issue. Only sometimes do I get code 27. It has gotten more difficult to make it go into limp mode the more I drive it but it still does it. The way it sits now is the OMP itself is gutted and bolted to the front cover but there's a blockoff plate underneath it, plugged in still of course. Since I still get limp mode, can it be caused by not having the rest of the parts inside the actual pump?
If thay isn't it, I have heard it can be full range tps/wiring. How probable is that?
07-03-14, 08:33 AM
#207
Theres another thread somewhere that a guy is having issues with his OMP "position sensor" idk how in depth S5 OMPs are, but if there is a sensor built into it (would make sense) and your is gutted, that could be why you keep going into limp mode. From what i've read most people tie them off somewhere and put in the block off plate, not gut them.
07-03-14, 09:08 AM
#208
Mine does have a blockoff plate, I just have the omp bolted on over it. I have thought the same thing, duley and now can't find the pieces. There is an s5 in my local pick n pull I might just grab the omp off of today to give it a shot.
07-03-14, 11:20 AM
#210
Right. And I should keep all the parts in it and just wrap it up real well, place out of the way?
I hear about a silver button that has to stay pressed for it ti stay out of limp mode. Is this right? Could that have been one of the inside parts I took out?
I hear about a silver button that has to stay pressed for it ti stay out of limp mode. Is this right? Could that have been one of the inside parts I took out?
07-05-14, 08:12 PM
#218
Hahah that's what I'm saying duley!
pfsantos - This is what I've gathered. Of course two plugs on the S5 OMP. A three-pin plug and a 6-pin. On the three-pin plug, those wires go down to a small black box under the backside of the pump held in [firmly!] with a pair of screws and that has a tall skinny silver button on the inside into the pump. I think THAT is the button that was discussed in the other thread I saw. However I imagine if there were a way to use just that sensor, it would be known. I would like to try to use just the wiring, but the one plug is for that sensor, and the larger is for the stepper motor, and I'm unsure how they tie in together on the inside. I imagine someone could wire it up to where it would work but just tying the pump up somewhere is better unless you're in a situation where every ounce of weight counts.
Thoughts on it, anyone?
pfsantos - This is what I've gathered. Of course two plugs on the S5 OMP. A three-pin plug and a 6-pin. On the three-pin plug, those wires go down to a small black box under the backside of the pump held in [firmly!] with a pair of screws and that has a tall skinny silver button on the inside into the pump. I think THAT is the button that was discussed in the other thread I saw. However I imagine if there were a way to use just that sensor, it would be known. I would like to try to use just the wiring, but the one plug is for that sensor, and the larger is for the stepper motor, and I'm unsure how they tie in together on the inside. I imagine someone could wire it up to where it would work but just tying the pump up somewhere is better unless you're in a situation where every ounce of weight counts.
Thoughts on it, anyone?
08-08-14, 12:58 PM
#222
I wanna pop back in and let everyone know I'm about 1750mi into the build now. Everything is runni g smoothly except a slight p/s leak from the return line so I need to fix that but otherwise running strong just like before, great compression - around 105psi each face, and quick starts. I'll be in here periodically. She did start strangely on me once the other day. Didn't just pop up alive like usual. It gradually caught, it seemed like. Hasn't done it since.
Otherwise Stella 2.0 is doing just fine.
Otherwise Stella 2.0 is doing just fine.
10-06-14, 08:25 AM
#224
Running great still at 4300 on rebuild. However I am now in need of a S5 power passenger side door and mirror. If ANYBODY knows of one for sale without too much shiping or local to like north FL/south GA or AL, I will come pick it up. Got sideswiped the other day. 
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