I think I popped it.
04-04-14, 08:40 PM
#78
they were pretty tore up from those 3mm seals, just be sure to premix heavier and torque the engine tighter this time to seal any possible gaps due to the previous housing cleaning practices. never use any machinery to clean the sides of the housings.
in some cases you can get 2 resurfaces out of housings, you only get one.
i also checked for electrolysis and there appears to be no internal coolant leaks through the plug and exhaust ports so if there was coolant getting into the engine it was coming from elsewhere.
in some cases you can get 2 resurfaces out of housings, you only get one.
i also checked for electrolysis and there appears to be no internal coolant leaks through the plug and exhaust ports so if there was coolant getting into the engine it was coming from elsewhere.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 04-04-14 at 08:46 PM.
04-04-14, 10:36 PM
#79
Damn. That's good though. I'm sure if you had found some you'd have let me know. I did notice a little spot around the exhaust port on one of the housings but it's nice and thick there.
Like I said earlier in the thread, the outer coolant seals were great. Still strong and stretchy, no damage. They even returned to their original size and still fit nicely in the grooves after a good, hard stretching. The inners however had splitting all throughout like an old serpentine belt when folded over on themselves and were noticeably fraying apart in between the binds as well as between the three layers. When I went to stretch, there was no pull and they very easily snapped. Not bueno. I'm praying your coolant seals paired with an over-torque and a hefty dose of hylomar will withstand whatever I can throw at them [within reason] well past the 14,000 miles I got from OEM seals.
I'll definitely keep a close eye on premix. I'm looking to see how she runs with 1, 1.5 and 2oz/gal. Standard Pennzoil Premium Plus TCW-3 looks like a good option. What do you guys like to use that you can grab for relatively cheap? I can get a gallon of the aforementioned Pennzoil for about $15. Pennzoil states it's specifically designed for keeping exhaust ports clean, keep spark plugs clean, to prevent piston scuffing [apex chatter?], and sticking rings [or seals/springs?]. What do you guys like to use for premix oil?
Like I said earlier in the thread, the outer coolant seals were great. Still strong and stretchy, no damage. They even returned to their original size and still fit nicely in the grooves after a good, hard stretching. The inners however had splitting all throughout like an old serpentine belt when folded over on themselves and were noticeably fraying apart in between the binds as well as between the three layers. When I went to stretch, there was no pull and they very easily snapped. Not bueno. I'm praying your coolant seals paired with an over-torque and a hefty dose of hylomar will withstand whatever I can throw at them [within reason] well past the 14,000 miles I got from OEM seals.
I'll definitely keep a close eye on premix. I'm looking to see how she runs with 1, 1.5 and 2oz/gal. Standard Pennzoil Premium Plus TCW-3 looks like a good option. What do you guys like to use that you can grab for relatively cheap? I can get a gallon of the aforementioned Pennzoil for about $15. Pennzoil states it's specifically designed for keeping exhaust ports clean, keep spark plugs clean, to prevent piston scuffing [apex chatter?], and sticking rings [or seals/springs?]. What do you guys like to use for premix oil?
04-05-14, 08:20 PM
#82
i ran the super tech stuff in my car for about 75k miles over about the last 8 years. if i were out racing it i would probably opt for some synthetic motorcycle oil.
whether it does the same job with these soft 3mm seals is to be determined. no one really knows all the factors to why the seals chew up the housings, which is why i say to premix very heavily because friction is usually the real cause and not so much the type of oil.
whether it does the same job with these soft 3mm seals is to be determined. no one really knows all the factors to why the seals chew up the housings, which is why i say to premix very heavily because friction is usually the real cause and not so much the type of oil.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 04-05-14 at 08:22 PM.
04-05-14, 09:16 PM
#83
Makes sense. I reckon you haven't torn down that engine, but I'll bet it runs great too, right Ben? I guess I'll be the test bed. Is it usually simpler to bolt the OMP back up and just add premix to it or to block it off? Mine being an S5, I know I'll have to leave the plugs connected or I'll get limp mode. My choice on what I do with my OMP will be made after a search but I'd really like to do away with as much as I can.
My VDI is another subject on my mind. I want to double check that I'm wired open but how can I be sure? I don't plan to use sleeves unless they are permanently sealed in as I plan to turbo the car in the near[ish] future.
My VDI is another subject on my mind. I want to double check that I'm wired open but how can I be sure? I don't plan to use sleeves unless they are permanently sealed in as I plan to turbo the car in the near[ish] future.
04-05-14, 10:32 PM
#84
on the S5 OMP it's easiest to just block off the ports but leave it where it is and premix since that lubricates everything and not just a portion of the apex seal. i haven't torn that particular engine apart yet since it's still in my car but coming out soon.
i'd have to check the VDI, i have one apart so maybe if i remember i will take a picture of how it should be wired open.
i'd have to check the VDI, i have one apart so maybe if i remember i will take a picture of how it should be wired open.
04-06-14, 11:02 AM
#85
That's what I figured would be easiest. I'll probably remove the lines from the pump as well and plug the holes since they are fragile and store them safely in my shed for future use if need be. Block off plate underneath the pump itself and keep the wires plugged in for an easy and clean setup.
Do I need to keep the vacuum lines hooked up to the VDI still? I have an emissions/ACV/aux port delete, so really how much of that rats nest do I still need? And since the OMP is going now too, have I made it to the point where I can leave out the rats nest?
What do you guys like to use to make an engine bay nice and clean? I thought about a pressure washer, but I'm losing paint in there too and don't want to completely strip it and paint the bay before the whole car is painted. I may do it like that though too because then it's just that much less money to get the rest painted. All my weatherstripping, window trim and everything needs to be replaced so I'm already looking at a hefty bill for paint even if I tear it all apart myself.
Thanks again to everyone who has had input on this thread, especially Ben. In the next few days or so I'm going to begin switching gears and making this a picture-happy build thread.
Do I need to keep the vacuum lines hooked up to the VDI still? I have an emissions/ACV/aux port delete, so really how much of that rats nest do I still need? And since the OMP is going now too, have I made it to the point where I can leave out the rats nest?
What do you guys like to use to make an engine bay nice and clean? I thought about a pressure washer, but I'm losing paint in there too and don't want to completely strip it and paint the bay before the whole car is painted. I may do it like that though too because then it's just that much less money to get the rest painted. All my weatherstripping, window trim and everything needs to be replaced so I'm already looking at a hefty bill for paint even if I tear it all apart myself.
Thanks again to everyone who has had input on this thread, especially Ben. In the next few days or so I'm going to begin switching gears and making this a picture-happy build thread.
04-11-14, 07:59 PM
#86
I have sifted through build thread after build thread and cannot find any info on replacing the throwout bearing in this transmission. How do I go about doing that? The engine is built and all I need to do is install the new clutch to put it back in.
Do I need to remove the transmission to get the fork out to do this or is there a guru-found trick for this as well? Got me a nice stage 2 Exedy unit.
Do I need to remove the transmission to get the fork out to do this or is there a guru-found trick for this as well? Got me a nice stage 2 Exedy unit.
04-12-14, 07:10 PM
#89
lol looks good
for the throwout bearing you have to remove the fork, pinch the 2 pins in the sides of the fork and rock it off the pivot ball. sometimes i have to dig a finger behind it to release it. once it's off you can slide the old TO off and the new one on. clean the shaft and apply wheel bearing grease to the shaft and inside bore of the throwout bearing before installing it back on. just push it until it snaps in place on the pivot and make sure it slides freely. a dap of grease on each pivot point is also a good idea and will make the clutch feel much more smooth.
for the throwout bearing you have to remove the fork, pinch the 2 pins in the sides of the fork and rock it off the pivot ball. sometimes i have to dig a finger behind it to release it. once it's off you can slide the old TO off and the new one on. clean the shaft and apply wheel bearing grease to the shaft and inside bore of the throwout bearing before installing it back on. just push it until it snaps in place on the pivot and make sure it slides freely. a dap of grease on each pivot point is also a good idea and will make the clutch feel much more smooth.
04-12-14, 08:38 PM
#90
Sounds good. Thanks Ben. Also, your housing work really sets it off too.
I spoke with misterstyx in another thread and he was telling me how difficult it is to mate the engine to the transmission with it in the car. Is it really that difficult to do? I would like to service the transmission but if I don't have to pull it I'd like to save myself the extra work. I have a screw-on pump for changing the fluid in it anyway. I have thought about replacing the pilot bearing too. The seal is iffy. I'll have to look at it more but the bearing had nice clean grease on it when I stuck a finger in there. Should I go through the trouble to replace it?
I spoke with misterstyx in another thread and he was telling me how difficult it is to mate the engine to the transmission with it in the car. Is it really that difficult to do? I would like to service the transmission but if I don't have to pull it I'd like to save myself the extra work. I have a screw-on pump for changing the fluid in it anyway. I have thought about replacing the pilot bearing too. The seal is iffy. I'll have to look at it more but the bearing had nice clean grease on it when I stuck a finger in there. Should I go through the trouble to replace it?
04-13-14, 08:45 PM
#91
Hooookay so I ALMOST had the engine mated tonight. Slid into the clutch disc splines but didn't go into the pilot bearing. I don't think the alignment tool worked so well. I have heard that you have to cut some of the end off to make it perfectly straight. Is this true?
04-18-14, 04:25 PM
#95
I've been asking around including asking Cam at Pettit and done some searching on this to not much avail. Cam's process sounds great but he has the tools to do it and I don't.
Are there any specific things people do to prep for first startup besides just filling it with oil and coolant and letting it go? Do I need to prime coolant like oil? Is cranking without the CAS plugged in a good way to prime oil? I'm trying to figure everything out before the rest of the engine is all put together which will still be a few days until my LIM gasket and OMP block off playe get here.
Are there any specific things people do to prep for first startup besides just filling it with oil and coolant and letting it go? Do I need to prime coolant like oil? Is cranking without the CAS plugged in a good way to prime oil? I'm trying to figure everything out before the rest of the engine is all put together which will still be a few days until my LIM gasket and OMP block off playe get here.
